I love reading sewing magazines and I once saw this type of seam used to join strips of seam binding together to create fabric which was later used to make a button down shirt. I thought that was such an inventive idea. I have experimented with this idea since. It is a little bit of a complicated seam to learn. Once you know how to use the type of seam you open yourself up to a world of possibilities.

The abutted seam, also known as the butted seam, has no seam allowance, which makes sewing this seam perfect when used for piecing fabric, such as in the magazine article. This seam is also commonly used when your sewing project requires you to join darts or seams to interfacings or linings where you want little to no bulk.

Sewing an abutted seam does not tend to give you a very strong seam but if you want to add strength you can add an underlay using seam binding. Adding an underlay can also be a good use for the selvage of muslin. (Since there aren’t many uses for selvage this use may be economical. You wouldn’t have to go spend your money on seam binding if you were to use muslin selvage).

If you do not use an overlay your seam will have a softer, more flexible result. Both effects can be desirable it just depends on whether you prefer a strong seam or a soft seam. If you are using this on a drapey design you might want a soft seam. On a more tailored design I would recommend using the overlay.

This seam may take practice. With enough practice sewing this seam will become second nature.

Start by cutting away any seam allowance around the area in which you intend to Sew this seam. If are using an abutted seam at a dart cut the seam allowance off of the dart take up.

When using an underlay with this seam: Take your time sewing. Accuracy is key. The more perfect your seam, the better your garment will lay. The extra time you take will pay off. It will ensure that your garment will fall properly when you have sewn in your lining.

Center the raw edges of your seam or dart and baste one raw edge to the underlay. After you have basted the first raw edge to the underlay take the second raw edge and baste it to the first. Secure the edges using a catch stitch. Press the seam.

When eliminating the underlay:

Like I stated earlier eliminating the underlay will give your seam a softer look. Your seam will also be more flexible. When finishing this seam with no underlay you will sew the edges of the seam on your garment to the edges of the seam on your lining. Use a catch stitch. After you have sewn the edges together press the seam.

Have fun and experiment with this seam. It is often the more complicated seam types that are the most fun to sew. They can also be the most frustrating. It will get easier with time. Remember that experimenting with new techniques always improves your sewing skills.