This Article is About
bust line
bust measurement
sewing project
fitting details
sewing patterns
waist measurement
own clothes
small chest
c cup
darts
Sew To Fit A Full Bust Line
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For girls who are “well endowed", with few extra curves on our upper body, fitting dresses and tops can be somewhat of a challenge. Most clothing is cut for a small chest , a B cup and ends being too tight on anything above a D. Try going up a few sizes to an F or above and it seems impossible to get a well fitted garment. Sewing Patterns aren’t drafted any different. Sewing Patterns are only 8 inches bigger on the chest than the waist and a few of us are shapelier than that. If you’re a C cup you are probably 9 inches bigger on your bust. When you Sew your own clothes from a Pattern you can get your wardrobe to fit a little better by altering your pattern if you don’t go up more than a size or two on the bust, or down on the waist. If you do the finished result tends to hang a little funny and its difficult to get a good fit.

There are a few remedies that I have found lend a good result to your Sewing Project. To get a good fit to your enviable shape I have a few tricks that I use. Instead of trying to alter your pattern between sizes try adding some fitting details include darts, tucks, and shirring.

To get the fit you want start by measuring your bust and your waist. Choose a Pattern Size that corresponds with your fullest measurement. In this case that would be the bust measurement. Subtract your waist measurement from that on the pattern size you are using. This is the extra body ease you will remove.

Next you need to decide what details, and how many, you want to add. D0 you want a row of tiny pin-tucks on the front of your blouse? Do want to add double darts to the back of your dress? You could easily remove a lot of space with shirring. Divide the extra body ease equally between each detail you are adding. This will be how deep you want to make each individual detail. (Just a tip, I personally find darts easier to fit if you don’t make them deeper than 2.5 inches). Measure the amount on your fabric where you want the detail and Make a mark for each. Now you’re ready to put in your shaping.

To help you decide what detail you want to use. Here are a few of the easiest to do.

Darts are tapered half-moon shaped on the inside of your Fabric and should look like a straight line on the outside. They are pretty easy to do with a few simple steps and only take a few minutes to create. They add shape to your Fabric by taking it in where you want less room and gradually letting it out where your lovely lady lumps need the room. If you are using darts then decide how many and where you want to place them. Tucks, such as pin-tucks, can be done in rows , are a very feminine, and have a slightly classic vintage feel. Each tuck takes in anywhere from .25 inch to a .5 inch each, or more. One tuck is pretty easy to make but it can be tedious to make rows of more than three. In order to get a professional look you need to get the tucks even with each other and straight up and down .This can be time consuming if you are new to sewing, but there are sewing machine feet to help make the job easier.

Shirring is rows of ruching, which is actually very easy. All you need to do is gather the fabric until it is the width you want. Gathering fabric is not difficult at all. Sew a basting stitch through your fabric and only knot one end. On the other end leave a thread about 2 inches long. Pull on the loose end and watch the fabric gather. Pull until you have the desired amount of rippling and presto you have ruching! Yeah! Good job on your Sewing.

Don’t let fitting your clothes intimidate you. It can be a lot of fun experimenting with different details. The process can teach you a lot and vastly improve your sewing skills if you just think outside of the norm when you sew. You will be able to expand your creativity and have fun while creating a great fitting wardrobe.


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